Edinburgh’s Greek Goddess
St. Bernard’s Well: Edinburgh’s Hidden Gem by the Water of Leith
One thing I love about Edinburgh is it’s a very walkable city, and it has so much green space. There are countless parks, paths and walkways that take you away from the bustle of the city and get you a little closer to nature. However my favourite is the Water of Leith. Quiet and picturesque, I often find myself walking the dog on at least one section of this majestic river that carves its way through the city. The people of 18th century Edinburgh clearly loved it too! As the city expanded its borders, the river increasing became less used for industry, and more for leisure. Nothing epitomises this change more than the St. Bernard’s Well.
The Healing Waters
The well was discovered around 1760 by a group of schoolboys out fishing. They found a natural spring, and soon enough, the locals started talking about its healing powers. People travelled from all over, hoping the mineral-rich water could cure everything from arthritis to blindness.
In 1789, the well was purchased by Lord Gardenstone, an influential figure in Edinburgh’s anti-slavery movement. He funded the construction of the stunning temple to protect the spring, and the place soon became a popular spot for “taking the waters.”
A Nod To Antiquity
By this point, the Scottish Enlightenment was in full swing and architects were taking influence from the antiquities (later Edinburgh would be known as the ‘Athens of the North’). The well as created by Scottish artist Alexander Nasmyth and looks like something straight out of ancient Greece. There are beautiful Doric columns, a dome topped with a golden pineapple, and an inscription over the door that says “Bibendo Valeris,” which means “drink and you will be well.” Inside the temple, there’s a statue of Hygeia, the Greek goddess of health, which only added to the idea that the spring had healing powers.
Even though some people described the water as tasting like “the washings of foul gun barrels,” the belief in its magical properties continued. People kept coming, hoping for a cure for their ailments.
Not So Healing Waters
The well fell into disrepair over the years, but in the 1880s, it was beautifully restored. The inside was decorated with a stunning mosaic ceiling in shades of ultramarine and gold and the pump was adorned with a Grecian vase. However, the water was eventually found to contain arsenic and other impurities, so it stopped being used for drinking in the 1940s. Despite this, it still stands today as a testament to the affluence of 18th and 19th century Edinburgh and well worth a detour while exploring the city.
A Literary Connection
St. Bernard’s Well even has a place in literature. It’s mentioned in Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein, where Dr. Victor Frankenstein reflects on the beauty of Edinburgh, saying, “The beauty and regularity of the new town of Edinburgh, its romantic castle and its environs, the most delightful in the world, Arthur’s Seat, St Bernard’s Well, and the Pentland Hills… filled him with cheerfulness and admiration.” Those are some big hitters to be categorised with!
A Must See!
So we can no longer be healed by Hygeia, but we can still gaze in wonder at her alter. Sadly the interior is rarely open, only accessible on certain event days, however, whether you're into history, architecture, or just want to find a peaceful spot to relax, this hidden gem is a must for any Edinburgh adventurer.
To learn more about Edinburgh’s secret curiosities book our Complete Edinburgh Experience, where you will explore the Old and New town, hearing fascinating stories of the capitals origins and how it became one of the most revered and beautiful cities in the world.
